Paint Your House On The Cheap
If you purchased some paint, patched up, and sanded your exterior, you can have a whole new house for the cheapest way possible. With new paint on your walls, your house will look totally transformed in less time and for much less than other remodeling projects. Your investment is also shielded from the elements by a thin layer of resin and pigment, giving it additional protection against the sun, wind, and rain, until this fragile coating cracks and peels. Then you’re gonna have to repaint it.
Exterior paint lasts for how long?
A new coat of paint should last for at least 15 years if it is applied carefully (and keeping the weather in mind). It is imperative to clean and sand every surface beforehand.
Painting a House: How to Do It on the cheap
Want a new look on your home? Here’s everything you need to know to achieve a high-quality finish.Any surface to be painted needs a thorough scrubbing before it is painted.
The cleaner also removes the dirt and break-down paint residues that prevent fresh coats from adhering and eliminates mildew from paint that grows in all but the sunniest climates.Most contractors use a pressure cleaner, however, they can gouge wood, shatter glass, and push water behind siding and trim in the hands of someone unfamiliar with the equipment. Pump sprayers, hoses, and scrub brushes are slower, but safer, and just as effective.
In the pre-scrubdown period, protect plants nearby by misting their leaves with water and soaking the surrounding soil with water, pulling them away from the house and covering them with fabric drop cloths. The leaves of the plants will be cooked under plastic. Lay drop cloths next to the walls to catch paint splatter.Water should be used to wet the exterior walls, followed by a solution of 1 cup chlorine bleach, and either a phosphate-free cleaning solution called Trisodium Phosphate(TSP) or Sugar Soap. Keeping the walls clean by working in sections will help avoid streaks. Rinse the walls well before using the solution. Wood siding and trim should be ready to paint after several days of dry weather.
Removing Lose Paint
Paint that has bubbled, blistered, or peeled needs to be removed. But if there is lead present—a probability in houses built prior to 1978—you must proceed with care. In order to clarify any questions, a paint chip sample can be sent to a lab, or a do it yourself kit will give a definitive answer.
It’s vital to protect yourself, your family, and the environment when you scrape and sand anything painted with lead. Before you tackle the most crucial part of the job, only put on a dust mask and lay down tarps to catch the fallen debris. A Paint Shaver can be used to get the job done and collect the lead dust. Other options include a carbide-tipped angle grinder whose dust-collection shroud connects to a HEPA-filter vacuum, both of which can be hired on a daily basis.
By hand the old layers of paint can be harder to remove because you have to attack it all at once. But it is less destructive compared to the use of power grinders and sanders. To speed up the paint removal process, you can use a heating gun to soften the paint.
Keep yourself safe by wearing a respirator when scraping paint by hand. Also, cover your surrounding area, including any plants and shrubs, with a tarp.
Once the loose paint is removed, examine what remains. If most of the paint still adheres well and isn’t too bumpy, 50- or 80-grit sandpaper can be used to smooth the border between the painted surface and the bare wood.
Using a pad sander or random-orbit sander will make the work go faster. Smooth the transition from exposed wood to old paint. For more sensitive areas, you can buff them with a 100- or 120-grit paper. By removing stubborn remnants using a shrouded grinder such as a Paint Shaver, Heat Gun, or chemical strippers, if less than half the old paint is left it might be worth stripping it all off. Then smooths the wood with a bit more sanding. You can also successfully hide rough, well-adhered paint under a thick primer
Safety First: You need a respirator when you use a random-orbit sander, or a dust mask for hand sanding.
As soon as the sanding is complete, it’s time to fill in minor cracks and dents, repair any rot, and replace any damaged pieces. It is best to repair deep cracks and rotten spots with two-step epoxy, not using the many car body fillers that cure too hard and start peeling away. Before caulking, prime the wood. Primer protects the wood in the event caulk fails.
The purpose of primers is to penetrate, seal, and provide a good surface for the top coat to adhere to. These have been formulated for application over bare wood, epoxy, and Spackle, and over paint on deteriorated and chalky surfaces. Acrylics work okay on most surfaces, but on cedars or redwoods, oil-based finishes are crucial to help keep the wood’s reddish-brown “extractivities” in place.
It is not uncommon for top coats to be tinted close to the primer’s color, but instead at a contrasting shade. If the first coat shows through the primer, there is more work to be done. Primers sprayed on will be worked into cracks and crevices by hand brushing them immediately.
Note: Spray metal primer on exposed nails to prevent rust from bleeding through paint.
Once the primer is dry, caulk your siding and trim. Most professionals use siliconeized acrylic color paint that will not adhere to straight silicone however, urethane acrylics offer better adhesion. With better longevity and flexibility, your project will look better. However, do not skimp on caulk. If a joint fails, you are in the same predicament you started in.
With acrylic latexes pushing oil-based paints into extinction, deciding which paint to use has become much easier. In addition to these advantages, acrylics also use less VOCs, leaving no blistering and lowering risks of air-quality complaints. They also work a lot better than old oil-based primers, ensuring a job of superior performance. On high traffic areas such as wooden steps and porches with a heavy footfall and on steel or cast iron railings with high water resistance, oil paint still has its place because of its superior wear resistance.
Hire a painter who will mask everything in the way in case spray, such as gutters, roofs, windows, shrubbery, walkways and cars—and make sure his workmanship is superior: Always remove, cover, or mask off everything that may be hit with overspray.
Pros recommend not adding mildewcides to your paint once you choose your paint brand. Some users, however, prefer to use additions to paint, such as Floetrol (for latex paint) or Penetrol (for oil paint), which slow dry times in hot weather to reduce brush marks and make paint sprayable.
How to apply the paint is the last big decision. Paint sprayers are usually favored because they’re fast, but if you’re not an expert, a high-powered sprayer can leave drips and thin coats, as well as a mist that may land on many other surfaces other than siding. As ladders are climbed and lowered and tarps unrolled and folded, every painting job develops its own unique dance. Two fundamental principles remain:
- Work from the top down.
- Avoid the glare of the sun by working in the shade.
Keeping tabs on the weather when the dance continues is important. Rain, temperature fluctuations below 5 degrees, and temperature dips below the current environment can interfere with adhesion and curing as well as dull the gloss of glossy paints.
Want can i paint my house with on the cheap?
The brush is the best tool for do-it-yourselfers to have maximum control. You are likely to get a better quality job, too. When I use a brush, I know I have checked every window and door in a house. Applying paint on trim and baseboards with a mini roller is faster, but should be followed by a brush. The pros are all in agreement in their opinion that you should always apply two top coats if possible, no matter which application technique you tend to use. The secret of a lasting paint job lies in this process.